I’m flying from Pune to Mumbai, then from Mumbai to Dubai, today. I should be at the Carlton Tower about 6:30 PM Dubai time.
I have Saturday morning to go seek the souk. You have a few hours to ask for me to buy you stuff before then.
I’ll be back in Portland Sunday noonish, and I’ll try to manage my jet lag as best as possible.
Last night’s absurdly good dinner was at the Meridian hotel. There were just five of us (me, Carl, Afshin, Aniruddha, and Akash) this time, but the meal cost as much as the previous night’s trip to Garden Court for 18. We had a bottle of wine and a cocktail, so the price difference isn’t as huge as that.
Meridian in Pune is a modern hotel for the expense account crowd. Carl says the rooms aren’t any better than at the Gandharv, but the lobby is amazing. There was a incredibly stupid ‘security’ process – a guy with a mirror on a stick went through the motions of looking under the car before we could get into the parking lot, and then we went through a metal detector, and got wanded, before we could enter the lobby. The security guys clearly didn’t care if anything beeped or not.
If you are in Pune, and visit the Meridian restaurant, have the morel kebab. You’re welcome.
On the way back from Meridian a band of street urchins came up and banged on our windows begging. I ignored them; I could see they were working in a large group, begging from every car at the red light in parallel. Ani and Akash tell us that they are an organized group, and it’s assumed some adult ringleader takes all the money they collect.
I was up at 4 this morning with inspiration for a work thing, and then couldn’t get back to sleep.
I overpacked insanely. The hotel does my laundry and puts it on my room tab, and it’s clean and folded when I get back to the room. Every article of clothing has a colored piece of yarn tied through the fabric, so all my stuff now has a little hole near the collar. Carl’s stuff has a different color yarn loop, so I think that’s how they keep the laundry sorted by room.
Today I had an amazingly productive run, saw Afshin off to the airport, and got in some tourist stuff in the afternoon. I am coming back with more stuff than I left with. Not sure how I’ll fit it all in…
India word of the day is “crore”. Just like lakh is 100,000, crore is ten million. One crore rupees buys a very very nice condo.
Last night we went to a restaurant called Garden Court. All our previous meals had been either the catered-in lunch at the office, or eaten at our hotel. Garden Court is better than the hotel food, and the hotel food is excellent. I got to try some Indian Chinese food, which was different. Basically they just kept putting food on my plate, a little bit at a time, until I thought I would burst. The only thing I recognized was garlic naan.
One of the guys asked me if, being from Oregon, I was interested in the Osho Ashram. I had no idea what he meant until he talked more about Osho, and I realized that was the final name taken by the Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh. After leaving Oregon he set up shop in Poona, and since his death in 1990, he gets more popular every year. This is probably the first time in my life I met anybody with anything good to say about him. He’s now considered one of the most influential Indian persons, in popular polls.
I’m flying out of Poona to Dubai on Friday morning, and I’m kind of dreading it. Poona to Dubai isn’t a nonstop anymore, probably because they are remodeling the Poona airport and there is no working passport control counter. This means changing planes and going through passport control in Mumbai. Here is how that day will probably go:
… and then Afshin will want to go clubbing. Thankfully my flight from Dubai to Portland doesn’t leave until late on Saturday evening, so I will get to do some touristy stuff.
Just some quick notes:
My hotel room is kind of a two-room suite thing. It comes to about $120 / night, and the service is great. They sent my laundry out and it came back clean and pressed, although they couldn’t get some staining out of my new favorite white shirt. Stupid white shirts attract hot sauce.
Today’s pics:
after hot pot last night we stopped by the Russian bar in our hotel (Carlton Tower – highly recommended) and had a beer and watched the dancing girls. There must be such a job as “mediocre Russian dance choreographer for mediocre Russian dancers in an Arab hotel” – I have seen the evidence.
Last night flipping through channels on the TV, I caught what must be Biggest Loser Arabic. I took some photos of my TV to prove it.
Morning I got up with the call to prayer, and watched the sun come up over Dubai proper. I have some photos attached.
Met with Carl and Avshin and went to the airport (DXB). Breakfast at a buffet place in terminal 2. AED 77 = 20-and-a-bit bucks = excellent breakfast. Very multicultural. There were omelettes, and Egyptian-style beans, and Chinese sauteed chicken livers in spicy sauce, and beef ‘bacon’. After a bite Carl paused for a cigarette and some discussion of his favorite TV shows (Deadwood and Battlestar Galactica).
If you ever get the chance to fly on Air Emirates, do so. They are twice the airline Delta or United is, even in economy class.
Arrived in Mumbai, which was rainy and very very green. Being from Portland, I know my heavily-vegetated urban areas, and this one wins. This was also my first taste of India beaurocracy: every single thing you do must be accompanied by a stamped form. Leaving the plane? fill out H1N1 form, get stamped. Carry 50 feet, give to the guy who allows you to go through passport control. Moving from international terminal to intra-India? get your boarding pass stamped. Got an E-Ticket instead of a paper boarding pass? sucks to be you, “sorry, very sorry sir”. (thankfully this wasn’t me). Take your carry-on through security? it gets a stamped tag attached.
Avshin tells me that when he was setting up a programmer pool here, he was once asked for an official company stamp – then for a stamp certifying that the previous stamp was an official company stamp.
After a totally bogus wait in Mumbai, we flew to Pune (pronounced Poona, which is how it USED to be spelled in English). We had a car waiting to take us to the hotel Gandharv. I rode up front. They drive on the left here, British style, and I was in the front passenger seat, where the driver would be in an American car. India driving is beyond insane by our standards. Two inches gap between vehicles means someone is wasting an inch and a half. Lane markers are ignored. Traffic signals are frequently just plain turned off. Our driver paused to yell for a while at a motorcyclist who was not willing to turn left across three lanes of traffic that were all ignoring their red light.
U-turns on 4 lane undivided highway where there’s no intersection? A-OK according to local custom.
Thank god for Xanax or I’d never have made it to the hotel with my sanity intact.
Hotel Gandharv is very nice, you’ll see the pictures tomorrow.
Arrived Dubai 7PM local time. Customs is a breeze once you get there – it’s a big airport. ATM to pull out AED 500 ($135 or so). Cab to hotel = AED 33.50, plus I gave the guy a AED 10 tip, erring on the side of generous.
Traffic is balls-out nuts by US standards. Cars are all Asian editions, so you see things like a Toyota Hiace minivan, or a Nissan Sunny compact sedan, all the time. Small objects are couriered around on motorcycles with cargo boxes. Lane splitting (a motorcycle driving right down the lane divider) is apparently legal and normal.
Advertisements are in English and Arabic. There seem to be no restrictions on where or how large a sign may be.
Brands I didn’t realize were global: Dairy Queen, Chili’s.
There is a significant Chinese population here (there may actually be a significant ANYTHING population here). Carl and I went out for Mongolian-style hot pot, where there’s a bowl of boiling spiced broth on the table, and raw ingredients are brought for you to make into food. We ate really, really well for about $30 US, although the wait to get in was kind of long. The power went out twice while we were there – I blame all the induction cookers on all the tables.
Dubai, so far, looks like a giant 24-hour shopping mall, which is not all covered and air conditioned. There are stores of every kind and description everywhere you look. Sometimes they are cheap little shoddy things full of questionable goods, and sometimes they are like those shops at the Bellagio in Vegas, where it’s all things you can’t afford. The difference between these high-end shops and the ones in Vegas is that these look like they do real business, all the time.
View from my hotel window (I’m holding the camera up to the window, and you can see quite a bit of reflection of the camera itself, and of my hand… in the distance, the vertical column of lights is the Burj Dubai, world’s tallest building or somethign)
More hotel window views. If it looks foggy, that’s because I opened the window to avoid the reflection, and the lens fogged up instantly. It’s hot here like the midwest gets, really humid even late into the night. Charlie can be seen next to the window in a couple of these.
Self portrait in Dubai
short note for now – internet access is about 80 cents a minute in my hotel room, so I’m going to try to compose offline, then upload a whole big post.
it’s incredibly muggy here, and feels like Blade Runner. Cargo mopeds running between the lanes, neon all over, everything in at least two languages.
I’ve been awake 25 of the last 28 hours, but fortunately it’s almost bedtime here anyway.
On the ground in ATL between flights. Wifi here is $7 / day, or I could have had 2 hours free if I subscribed to USA Today.
The flight here was uneventful, but economy class on Delta is just not comfortable for me. Unfortunately I had a window seat, fortunately there was an empty middle seat next to me – and I was still cramped. Not thrilled about the next leg – 17” wide seats are maybe OK for a movie theater, but 14 hours, Jesus.
There was an in-flight entertainment screen in the seatback in front of me. I could watch some HBO series I already saw at home, or some movies I didn’t want to go see in the theater, or most any basic cable station. The best option was actually the moving map showing where the plane was RIGHT NOW, and that’s not a slam on basic cable. Window seat plus map meant that I could look down and say, oh, THAT’s Wichita.
The South is much more forest-y than I’d imagined, at least where we were flying. I guess my mental map of vegetation was thrown off by the fact that when you drive East from Portland, you run out of forest before too long – Great Falls Montana, not forested – Denver, not forested really, and east of Denver you have nothing. Turns out that pattern doesn’t hold once you get to Missouri or so.
I might be able to get some work done on the next leg of the trip - I’ve heard mixed reports about the power & internet situation on this particular plane & my particular seat, so I’ve got my fingers crossed.
There’s a luggage store across from this gate. Isn’t it a bit late to buy your baggage when you’re already out on the terminal? The staff looks bored.
Travelex currency exchange has a big sign, no fees on exchanges over $500. I’m not going to spend that much – probably better off just withdrawing some from an ATM at the Dubai airport.
My MP3 player sucks a big floppy donkey dick. I might pick up a new one on the road, or a phone with some media chops.
Other in-flight entertainment choices: I have Ula’s Kindle, with a dozen or so books I’d like to read. I have a copy of Lumley’s “Necroscope”, which I have spent the last 23 years not reading, but I finally realized I liked Lumley’s short horror stories, so maybe I’d like his vampire-spy series. I have some classic movies on DVD, watchable on the laptop given enough power. Finally I have music, although the sound quality and interface on my portable player are ultra-hyper-mega-shitty, to be delicate about it.
location – PDX airport 10 am -- free wifi here at gate D7. TSA checkpoint was easy – proper packing for the win.
I’ve got my fingers crossed for power at my seat on the ATL-DXB leg of the trip. Also, I’m kind of psyched about how many frequent flyer miles this is going to be – just under 20,000 round trip.
I am now going to include a couple pictures of my carry on bag, just to test out the workflow for getting pictures uploaded from the road:
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